Emeritus Vineyards

In the land of west Sonoma County, aka west county, there is a magical road known as the Gravenstein Highway/116 where there are some remarkable wineries, specifically, makers of pinot.  One that absolutely stands out is Emeritus.  The owner/winemaker gets his chops from Sonoma-Cutrer.  Emeritus means "to earn by service"  We also think it means to "dream of pinot".

Bryce Cutrer-Jones is the owner.  He made his mark at the famous local winery, Sonoma-Cutrer.  After selling his interest he bought land from the Hallberg family.  Originally zinfandel was planted during prohibition and then apples.  Once he acquired the land he pulled the orchard and started planting pinot.  He set about to bring out the best the grape had to offer, so he gave the vines the best he could offer - organic farm, dry farming and no pesticide/herbicide spraying.  He wants to let the grapes grow and draw from the terroir.  

When my wife and I visited the winery I had the pleasure of being able to have a brief conversation with Bryce while sitting in their beautiful open room viewing the vineyard.  He is a humble man who speaks with deep love of what he does.  When trying to give him a compliment he deflected it with a powerful statement - "God makes the wine."   Indeed.  But he uses this man's hand to do so.

Now to the experience.  They built a beautiful retro industrial building and recently expanded it to include a well-appointed and open tasting room.  With a movable window wall you get to see who the real star of the show is - the vineyard.  You can feel the coastal breeze, even on a hot summer day, which is what gives us some of the magic for this area and the Russian River Valley.

Walking up you are greeted by tasting room staff and they pour you a glass of sangnee.  You don't initially realize it, but your experience has begun.  That wine you are holding is the key to the door at Emeritus.  They encourage you to sit wherever you are comfortable and then join you there for a more intimate experience with the wine.

The sangnee is delicious.  Ruby Red is it's name and it is very limited production.  (in fact, when I went out a second time to purchase a bottle it was wine club restricted due to dwindling stock.)  For those not familiar with sangnee, it is the original style of rose.  It is the first free run of juice, as opposed to blending or pressing, to produce rose.

The three pinots were clear examples of their individual terroirs - sonoma coast near Annapolis and higher elevation, russian river valley and then sonoma coast/petaluma wind gap.  (At the time of tasting the petaluma wind gap was a future AVA, but has since been approved.)

All are amazing.

Hallberg vineyard may sound familiar to a few fellow pinotphiles because Bryce sells some grapes to wineries such as Joseph Jewel, Gary Farrel and Sherrer.  Of course, they keep the best grapes for themselves.  I am truly glad they do.

Check it out!

Children and wine tasting etiquette 101

Ah, winetasting.   Certainly one of my favorite experiences to share.  I know I am not alone in this.  But once you have children there is a tendency to want to take them everywhere with you, push for everything to be a family experience.  And, despite what some people may say, it is not wrong at all, with the proper planning and preparation.

It is understandable for those who have gone 9+ months being good, not putting toxins in their body, waiting patiently, to get a chance to once again have that experience.  I can guarantee you that if I had a baby that the first thing I would want afterwards is a glass of wine!  (especially since I am a Man.) I've discussed families and wineries many times with people, both in and out of my time in the industry.  The most extreme case wasn't even a winery, it was a smoke shop.  I invited a colleague out a week after his baby was born to give him some well earned down time and his wife came along with their newborn.  Now, this was before the new law that prevents that.  It is a case of the wife feeling left out and there is that need to still want to continue to live a certain lifestyle, not like a bar, but still have that winery experience.
But now the challenge comes to choose wisely and carefully which place is appropriate.

So now, how to go about this.  Firstly, come up with a list of wineries you are a fan of or are wanting to try.  Once you have your list, contact that winery tasting room and ask if it is ok to bring kids.  Some may want to separate you from the other guests and offer you a private tasting or reserve a spot that would be more appropriate for a family.  In my experience, small wineries are more family friendly.  Still, some wineries will probably just give you a "no" on the family friendly question.  It is still best to call ahead and ask so that you can have the best possible experience for you and for the other patrons.  Also, make sure there are no special events going on, like Wine Road.  Officially they state not to bring your kids, but still some people do.  You are very likely to lose them in the crowd, among other concerns.

Once you have found a family friendly winery, here are a few pointers on how to taste with children

1.  Have a designated driver.  One that does not partake at all.  People in the winery will call the police on you if they see both of you tasting and then pile into the car with children.
2.  Bring snacks and food for your children.  Do not rely on a winery having nibbles for kids.  If you give them the nibbles when are stopped at the winery you have a better chance of keeping them somewhat corralled.
3.  If the winery has outdoor picnic benches or play structures, by all means use them.  Utilizing these family amenities may encourage other wineries to do so, as well.
4.  If at all possible, do not bring them into the tasting room itself.  If you have to, be sure and control your child(ren).  Keep a hand on them at all times, and don't let them play with merchandise or bother other patrons.  We all love children (really!) but it can ruin the experience for some people.
5.  If another patron does take exception and say something to you, let them know that you did clear it with the winery ahead of time and address the behavior separately with your child(ren).

Follow these few steps and you can have a little fun with your family.

Now, onto some of the family friendly wineries my family has enjoyed:

1.  Francis Ford Coppola - This is a wonderful winery that offers quite a bit.  They have a pool for summer fun, outdoor pizza oven, and host events throughout the year.
2.  VJB - This is a courtyard winery  that offers deli, pizza oven, espresso bar, gelato bar, chocolate and, of course, a full winery.  They also host holiday events throughout the year.  It is very nice to come, sit in the courtyard, listen to some music, and partake of the different offerings in a relaxed, gracious family friendly environment.
3.  Sunce - This is such a fun winery.  They have a wildly fun harvest fair party with face painting, grape stomping, food, walks in the winery, and other fun.  The owners have children who live on the property, so it's like a garden party at someones house.
4.  Navarro - Kid friendly, a lot of outdoor picnic tables with shade, a nice field to run in.  They have unfermented juice for the kids which comes from the same grapes, which is fun.  Depending on the time of year you can catch the sheep actually pruning the vineyard (yes, sheep.)
5.  Benziger - This is a fun winery with a lot to offer - good wines, gardens, picnic tables, plenty of amenities and even a playground just for the kids.
6.  Cline - Not only does this winery produce some tasty Rhone varietals, they also are very family friendly.  On the grounds is a Mission History museum, petting zoo and preservation area provided by the Cline family.  I thoroughly enjoyed bringing my son and his school class out here.

With a little pre-planning you can have both family time and enjoy your local wineries.

Cheers!

Vinobrotha and the Amateur Wine Competition

Normally I do blogs about wineries and my experiences there.  Today will be about my experience as a home winemaker and my first competition.

I made my first 2014 Viognier from Dry Creek grapes.  The grapes were sourced from a gentleman who grows professionally and had excess that year after filling contracts with local wineries.  He was one of the few to sell to home winemakers, and for that I am grateful.

I went out and picked on a hot morning.  It was a short harvest, as I only took 120 lbs., but the view was amazing.  The vineyard is located on a west facing slope on Dry Creek Road, overlooking the valley.  They were beautiful big fat juicy clusters of my potential first wine.

Once I got my haul home I went to work with the help of my wife and a friend.  Crush went fairly fast and we set for maceration for a little over an hour.  We then pressed off the juice and made a nice big cake of spent grape skins.  Before adding yeast I let the debris settle overnight and then racked to get nearly clear juice.  I then pitched QA23 yeast.  I knew that with white wine the process was different if you could cool ferment at or below 50 degrees.  I decided to cool ferment and had to use the basic equipment of a chilled water bath.  So I put my tub inside a larger container and cycled frozen water bottles into the water bath about every 6 hours for the next two weeks.  Not as long as some cool fermentations, but it got the job done.

After three rackings and clarifying, I bottled it in the spring of 2015.  I set it aside and did not touch it for two months.  I sought out a friend to design a label dedicated to my Grandma, who had passed away two years prior.  My dream was not only to make wine, but to also make wines I felt were good enough to stand up to competition.  

I entered the Sonoma County Harvest Fair Amateur Wine Competition in August, with the results coming out in September.  I would be happy just to place at all at this point, knowing it was my first venture.   I was extremely shocked when my friend called me and told me that I had won Gold.  I was in a heady daze for days.

After the Harvest Fair concluded I had to go pick up my bottles.  Well, this is where it gets funny.  When I went there were probably 5 other people milling around the amateur gallery waiting to pick up their wines.  One man leaves with his bottles and just looks at me like "holy shit".  I am not what a few people expect to see at a wine competition.  I look around and find my winning bottle.  Then I walk up to claim my certificate, judging notes and gold medal stickers.  When I told the counter person my name, what wine and which place I took I could hear audible surprise behind me and you could feel the tension in the room.  Anyhow, I take my belongings and leave.  Even on my way to my car I got a look of surprise, not fitting the picture you normally see around wine and wine events.  

Yes, I do stand out.  I am a Black man who drinks wine, now makes it, and apparently is fairly good at making it.  I've spent a lot of time in and around wineries the last 3 years and I know I am unique in this environment.  Let that be an encouragement to other people of color.  It may make people look at you funny initially, but wine is fun, wine-making is hard work and fun, and you are every bit as entitled to enjoy any facet of wine your heart desires.  You just may be the next big thing.

Cheers!

Lasseter Family Winery

I've driven by here many times, but never knew that there was such a great winery tucked behind an elementary school.  Don't worry, the winery is fenced.

But, before I begin with the wines, the terroir, etc. I must give a history of the owner.   If you know about Pixar than you know indirectly about John Lasseter.  John's passion is storytelling, and Pixar was built on storytelling.  Fine winemaking is also storytelling.  Listen for the nuances of place, grape, time, hand, and bottle.  You'll hear it.

John and his wife Nancy acquired the property in 2002.  They saw the potential of the place and undertook remaking a long neglected vineyard into a visionary winery.  In 2010 they started production on the estate, and the following year opened the winery.  But that is not where the story of their winemaking started.  John and Nancy started making wine at their home in Sonoma in the 90's and giving it to their family as gifts.  Their progression into world-class winemakers started with this very first effort.

As I mentioned earlier, the winery is fenced and gated.  It is opened by appointment only.  They specialize in mainly Rhone and Bordeaux blends and a field-blended Zinfandel.

The production that the winery chooses to go by is the best quality grapes.  So, you have quality over quantity.  Only a portion of the usable land is currently under vine, as they purposely utilize only the choicest parts for the best quality yield.  They do not claim to be a biodynamic winery, but they use a lot of the best practices from that type of winemaking.  They utilize owls for rodent control, cover crops for nutrient replenishment,  and although they use water for a landscaping feature, are sparing in their use of excess water.

When you sign up for a tour they meet you at the front of the winery.  You are greeted warmly by staff and offered a class to start your journey.  Your guide tells you the history and starts the story of Lasseter.  He takes you outside and you start the tour in the vineyards.  He shows you the features and consideration taken for the grapes and land.   Then takes you down into the winery itself and into the production area.  Let me stop here for a moment.  Although it is a small winery (ok, small, ultra-premium in my book) the barrel room is pretty stunning.  High walls, perfect lighting, artwork, and that wonderful smell of grapes, oak, and perfect humidity.  That room in itself is quite an experience for the senses.

Ok, moving on.  While in the barrel room I had the pleasure of getting a barrel sample of their Malbec.  Divine, especially when experiencing it in that room.

Then we moved upstairs into a very nicely appointed conference type room, dedicated to a wonderful tasting experience.  We were seated in comfortable chairs and presented with carefully considered pairing snacks for each wine.  (an aside, if you are gluten-free they are happy to accommodate you, just ask.)  Each wine is presented with a specific pairing and you are guided through proper tasting technique without feeling as you are being schooled, merely guided.

They poured their entire offerings.  All were delicious in their own right, but two spoke to me - Enjoué and Chemin De Fer.

Enjoué is a dry rose of Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedrè.  It is made in a classic rosé style of saignèe.  There is a wonderful crispness of fruit, with strawberry and mango interweaving with pleasing acidity and a long finish.  The name Enjoué means "joyous" in French.

Chemin De Fer is a deep dark blend of Grenache, Mouvedrè and Syrah.  What is wonderful about this wine is that it is not the big fruit bomb most GSM blends are made into locally.  It is softer, approachable, with a wonderful feel.  It is like wearing a nicely worn leather jacket that doesn't look it.  I can enjoy this with or without food.





"If you go here you like wine.  If you like wine, then you will go here."

http://www.lasseterfamilywinery.com/

Cheers!  VinoBrotha

Poseidon Vineyards & Obsidion Ridge

This is a unique winery that sources from both sea level of Carneros/Napa and the high altitude in the Red Hills AVA Lake County.  This gives a truly diverse array of wines to taste from.  Not only that, but the owners happen to own a cooperage in Hungary and all their wines are aged in their own oak. This adds even greater separation from other wineries.  I don't know any other wineries that own their own cooperages.

You will find this place on Arnold drive just south of the Hwy 116/121 cutoff, commonly known as the crossroads.  It is in between Anaba and Cline vineyards.   There is a conclave of winery tasting rooms, art exhibits, shops and a restaurant.  This makes an easy one stop shop to satisfy your food, shopping needs, art and, of course, wine.

The owners are three guys (two brothers and a friend), who are farmers, coopers and winemakers.  They started farming the Carneros area in mid 1973, and purchased the lake county property in the 90s.  From Carneros they grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that are exceptionally elegant, complex, with a nice light touch of oak.  I get apples, lime, and a minerality that shines through.  "The Bench" Chardonnay has notes of lemon curd and pear tart characteristics.  Sounds like that doesn't work together, but it goes to the complexity of this chardonnay.  I'd add that the pear tart would have nutmeg in the crust, owing to the earthy nuttiness that is deep in the finish.
The Pinot Noir had a nice garnet color, yet somewhat transparent. Aromas of strawberry and rhubarb.  The palate was of red berries with a nice balanced acidity, with a nice soft spice lingering at the end of the finish.
The chardonnay and pinot noir are the Poseidon vineyard line.  That is an homage to the king of the sea, as the vineyards are at sea level.
Climbing into the sky, we find ourselves in Lake County and with the Obsidion line.  The reason why it is called the obsidion line, these vineyards are in a high elevation above 2300', in red volcanic soils littered with large chunks of obsidion.  The vines struggle in the arid conditions, high elevation, and produce a smaller berry.   This gives a higher skin to fruit ratio and imparts completely different flavors that lower elevation irrigated grapes.  It also imparts more minerality and a noticably deeper color than you would expect.   The varietals they produce there are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and some Petite Verdot.

All of these wines are big, full of flavor, and rich in color.

What I liked the most was the 2012 Syrah.  It had it's own thing going, with blackberries and black pepper coming to my mind, with a cocoa finish.  I thought I got some mint on the nose when it opened up.
We tried two different Cabs that were amazing.  The Obsidion Estate 2011 held deep dark color, with roasted red pepper, black plum and just a touch of caramel.  "The Slope" Cabernet 2012 was more fruit forward, more fruity aroma, less vegetable-y, red stone fruit, and baking spices and vanilla.

I also tried the 2011 proprietary blend, "Half Mile Red Blend".  It is a nice blending of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.  I can't call this wine red.  It is so dark it is black.  You can call it what you want - I declare it to be black.  :)  We'll both agree that it is amazing.

I look forward to returning and bringing some good friends to experience this gem.

http://www.tricyclewine.com/

Cheers!
 

Campovida

I have been here many times.  Was once owned by Fetzer, but now independently owned.

My wife and I found this place while heading to Lake County to explore.  And we have returned many times.

What I love about this place is that due to the microclimate of the area they are able to produce a wide range of varietals.  From Cabs and Zins, to a few Italians, and a few Rhones.  This place is close to my heart, as they carry Viognier, Marsanne, Rousanne and some blend of Syrah.

As you drive up 128 outside of Hopland you will see a sign that draws you in.  Parking will be a little confusing at first (hint:  keep to the left all the way in and it takes you to the correct parking lot.)

In front of the winery is a wonderful big pergola with picnic tables beneath.  Vineyards surround the entire property.  And then you realize after looking around that it is not only a winery and tasting room but a vacation resort.  There is plenty to explore on the resort, as well.  There is an organic garden with hidden picnic tables, a very nice trellis covered with the same varietals that grow around the property, a little lake, and many pathways to meander with your glass of wine.  The landscaping though out the entire property is immaculate and pristine.  They take real pride in the grounds.

I have been here many times with friends and family.  One of my favorite things is to bring a group, get a bottle of wine, and have a picnic out on the grounds.

Now, I should probably focus a little on the wines and winery experience.  I come back here because I am treated well and the wines are good.  The tasting room decor is barn/industrial with reclaimed wood, nice beams, copper countertops that patina changes every time, a big stump table and nice seating.  There is a display of the local produce from the property depending on time of season, local honey and olive oils from the property.  So you truly get the experience of farm to table and taste of terroir, from produce to the wine in your glass.  Their tagline is "Taste of Place" and it certainly fits once you get to know Campovida.

The vintner, Sebastian Donoso, is Chilean and is wildly talented.  He came over from nearby Saracina Vineyards and was hired by the new owners to create wines in line with their vision for Campovida.  He brings a wonderful touch to his wines, nurturing the grape to its full potential without overworking the wines.

The winery is sustainable, biodynamic and very family friendly.

Want to like more of Campovida?  They also have a pizzaria in Hopland and a tasting room in Oakland.  Cheers!

T.W.B.* Tasting Experience

I usually blog on topics of my positive experiences of wineries and wine. I am hesitant, but want to express my experiences of bias and prejudice in the tasting room.  Now, before you scroll on past to the next blog post just pause for a moment.

Wine tasting itself is a subjective experience.  You have your palate, preferences, and your appreciation will vary based on those.  It is a completely personal experience for the individual.  Nobody can dispute the right or wrong of what you smell or taste, although they may for sake of conversation.   What I'm going to talk about is the objective part of wine tasting - as a patron in a tasting room.  You walk in and you are a potential customer and sized up accordingly.  Sometimes that sizing ends up categorizing you based on the staff's personal biases or the culture of the winery itself.

It is no mystery, I'm African-American and make one of the 1.9% in Sonoma County according to the 2012 Census.  (even Napa County only has 2.3% African-Americans, although California is 6.6% overall.)  Not a whole lot of representation as far as demographics go. I do stand out very quickly for that when traveling to various wineries.

That being said, I do see an increase... a small increase, of other cultures in the tasting rooms.
I often wonder, Is it a class issue? Do we look like we are not going to buy wine? (what does that even look like?)

I have seen how some of the tasting room staff  become stand offish when I or others walk in.  I've felt the uncomfortable decrescendo that occurs sometimes.  Movies play it up, when a hush comes over a room.  I have experienced it in one of my favorite places, a winery tasting room.

I will not list any names of the wineries in this case,  as I am not looking for redemption nor revenge, though a few are reviewed in my blog.  I do not share that aspect of my experience in my review.

Besides just being a fan of wine, and a blogger, I have also worked in a tasting room.  I have poured at and worked many wine events, both as paid staff and volunteer.  I have visited over 100 wineries in Sonoma, Napa, Lake, Mendocino Counties and Paso Robles.  I'm also a Certified Tourism Ambassador and I focus on giving people recommendations on positive wine experiences.  And, recently, I started making wine.  So, while I am no expert, I am also not a novice on this subject.  And, I have been black my entire life.  :)

I will, however, share what I want to say to those winery owners and staff:

1.  I know your first inclination is to deny that bias and prejudice exist in your tasting room.  Sometimes it really does.  Do realize that it is out there and is a real experience.  Please don't dismiss this as a "aww, poor me, I'm black and my life is harder than the rest of the races in the world" type of thing.  Sit back and recognize that wine tasting is one of those activities that has been predominately focused on a particular economic demographic, upper middle class white couples.  Like it or not, you and or your staff may focus purely on that demographic and dismiss the others.  At best it is unconscious, at worst, it is malicious.

2.  On the (hopefully) rare occasion that someone does note/complain/review that they have had a negative experience, you should take it seriously.  Be proactive.  You can minimize the damage to your reputation, your brand, and your client experience if you own it and do the work to fix it.  Sometimes that means a staff change, sometimes staff training, sometimes a public answer to a review.  But it always, and I mean always, should include speaking with the person who had the experience.  Hear them out and give them an opportunity to tell you how it made them feel.  Yes, it will be uncomfortable for you, but your winery has already made them feel uncomfortable.  For what?  Trying to taste wine and hopefully come away as a fan with a few bottles...

3.  I recognize that you are in the business of making and selling wine.  You have a limited amount of staff and sometimes a deluge of potential customers.  In sales, it is normal practice to focus on the "low hanging fruit" and go for the target demographic and most likely sale.  I get that.  But what does that equate to in your tasting room?  Does your staff focus on the more vocal or direct clients only and ignore the more quiet ones?  That could be a missed opportunity to draw someone out, educate them on wine or your brand.  I will tell you...I buy wine.  What I don't do is fight for space and attention at a tasting counter when winery staff is working their schtick and focused on the group they think is most likely to buy.  I see it all the time.  Staff does the test close sometimes when they first greet you "are you here to taste and maybe bring something home today?"  That may as well be asking "are you going to buy today or just waste my time and energy?"  I have gotten it many times myself.  Something restaurants do that I don't think wineries do is stress test their staff.  Load up your tasting room with a bus of secret shoppers in on the test and see how your staff handles it, really.  Come up with ways to make the experience of your winery the most positive, and accessible to all, it can be.  See how that translates into sales and wine club memberships.  And be sure to represent a wide racial and socio-economic demographic when you do.

4.  Whether you think it is bad or good, treat all of your patrons the same.  Period.


Now, I know that while you have been reading this you may have been coming up with reasons to dismiss or minimize this.  Let me address those possible objections.

1.  "Well, nobody has complained."  That may very well be the case.  Tell me, would you?  Especially if you have been minimalized or marginalized by an experience.  Would you put yourself back out there?  Probably not.  That is why you need to test your staff to see if you have a problem.  That is also why when you are alerted to a problem by someone, anyone, take it seriously.  I know how hard it is to stand up and say something. You can recognize that would be hard to do.

2.  "Wow, another instance of someone 'playing the race card."  Really?  Am I asking for any special treatment?  Nope.  How is that using the race card?  I just want a good, positive tasting experience for myself and others.   And I am guessing you want that for all your patrons.

3.  "Some people who complain do so just to get freebies."  Well, that may be true.  I will tell you that if a person is telling you about a problem without their hand out you can rest assured that they want you to know you have a problem.  If you choose to offer something that is on you.  If not, that's ok.  The best and first thing you should always do is hear the person out.  Listen with sincerity.

I'm going to give you an recent example of the kind of treatment I speak of.  It happened in November 2014 in a Carneros winery.  I walked into the tasting room.  There was a fairly decent size group in there that was wrapping up.  My friend and I walked in and all the sudden the sounds went from laughs and lively to muted tension.  People completed their purchases, paid and left.  During this duration, there were multiple staff present, but none of the staff bothered to acknowledge we were even there.  One staff remained in the room after the group and other staff left.  She busied herself with the cash register, other things, staying on the other side of the room.  We were actually trying to get her attention.  We decided to just sit and watch her and see how long it would take her to warm up and decide to serve us.  We were in there, alone with her, for nearly 10 minutes before she finally looked up and decided to acknowledge us and ask us if we wanted to taste. She addressed my friend directly, who is a white female.  My friend looked at me to answer the question of the staff, pretty much in disbelief that this was actually happening this way.  I told her that I was here to taste a specific wine, the Viognier, as I am a home winemaker also and had sourced from the same vineyard they used.  She was fairly dismissive but efficiently retrieved the tasting and left back to the other counter.   We took our glasses and went to sit on the outside patio, as that presented a friendlier environment than inside the tasting room.

Yeah, possibly she was having a bad day and it had nothing at all to do with us.  Even though we got to witness her being happy, personable, and very hospitable with the group of people before us.  Tell me what conclusion you would draw from that?  I'm not sure I'd ever go back, even though I know the vintner.  If I do, I will probably go alone, as I don't like to share potentially negative experiences with friends and family.  I take people to wineries because there is something truly unique and positive to enjoy there.

*Tasting While Black